Un savoir-faire - The hand hem-rolling

Traditionally made by hand, the hand hem-rolling is at the heart of the know-how of hand sewing.

Back in these days, weaving industries did not work directly with "roulotteuses" (craftspersons, usally woven, specializing in handmade hem-rolling) ; instead, they worked with independent distributors, that would spread the hand work amongst families of their choosing. These distributors were then paid a percentage of the roulotteuses's production.

While today there still are a handful of roulotteuses in france, distributors have almost disappeared - the last one, working for Simonnot Godard, having retired in 2003. the process has been traditionally a teamwork effort, complete with a very friendly atmosphere.

Beyond the hem-rolling, there was also a need for people to cut pieces and to iron the finished handkerchief, pocket square, or scarf, before boxing the item.

Unfortunatly, the highly-specialized skill set of the roulotteuse, are on the verge of disappearing. Simonnot Godard currently employs 2 specialty - skilled workers. We wholeheartedly support and work towards promoting new people to preserve this precious of Savoir-Faire.

The art of hem-rolling : the rules

  • The hand-rolled hem should have (4 stitches per cm), as discreetly embroidered as possible.
  • the thread should always be of the same color and type as the thread used for weaving the hk,
  • The hands should always be clean,
  • The fabric is tightly rolled on itself to give the handkerchief its substance,
  • Never stop in the middle of a rolling a hem - stopping and going will considerably alter the general aspect of the hem, when it should be straight and of even thickness,
  • The angles of the handkerchief should never be cut, but rather hand-rolled at a straight angle, without putting excessive emphasis on the tip, which should never peak, or be rounded.

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